The first stop of the Kashmir blog: Pahalgam

Residing in Jammu and hailing from Kashmir, it's very unusual that I never had any anecdotes to share about its beauty or being. It was only during the post-work hours or the weekends when the family used to sit together and discuss "Kashmir" over a drink or evening tea that painted a picture in my head. Discussions about the glory days and genocide were my only ways to connect with the place. Of course, Naanu used to fill me in on the stories, which made me crave a visit. 

Tell you what, before 2021 happened, I had already visited the place twice(once in 1999, I believe and 2006, aged 4 and 11 years) but, this year shaped my perspective towards the city as a Kashmiri. This time, I felt the stories coming alive, which were ringing a bell in my head for years. The places and the characters once narrated to me were walking beside me and guided me through the good old days of yore. 

Speaking of happiness, our first pitstop was Pahalgam, the valley of Shepherds. Driving up till here was not smooth. The traffic and bad roads took a toll on all of us. But, what kept us motivated all through the way was a luxurious stay at Pine N Peak. And rightly so, all the frown disappeared once we parked our cars right outside this ITC property. Undisturbed by any commotion, the hotel opens up to the picturesque views of snow-capped mountains and the shimmering Lidder River. The exquisite design of the hotel derives inspiration from local and traditional art, including wood carving and intricate tapestry. 

Find out more here https://www.itchotels.com/in/en/welcomhotelpinenpeak-pahalgam

From the garden, overlooking the Lidder

The comfort here is unparalleled. Picture sleeping to the sound of Lidder River every night! Yep, that's the experience you pay for, and it's enriching. The chefs here are specialists in the most delectable Pan-Indian, Oriental and Continental cuisines in addition to the Kashmiri food. 

Top tip:- Make your nights more memorable by asking the staff to arrange for a bonfire. 

Lidder River

Best experiences in and around Pahalgam include trekking at Aru Valley(25 minutes from Pine N Peak), Mamal temple(15 minutes from Pine N Peak), and relishing the local food at quaint cafes(a 5-minute drive to the market). 

ARU VALLEY

Known for its scenic meadows, it is a base camp for trekkers to the Kolahoi Glacier, the Tarsar-Marsar lakes, the Katrinag valley, Lidderwat, and the Vishansar-Kishansar lake.

Shoppers stop at Aru Valley

Div Kaav (crow). They say it's only found in this area of Kashmir and nowhere else

MAMAL TEMPLE

Of all the stories narrated to me from my family's time spent in Kashmir, trips to Mamal Temple was one of them. It is an ancient treasure that was visited by my mother and her mother as kids. One can read upon its cultural importance in Rajatangini (written in the 12th century), referring to the temple as Mammesvara and records its decoration with a golden kalasha at its top by king Jayasimha. 

LOCAL DELICACIES

Though we were aiming at The Trout Beat to put our hunger pangs to rest, we came across Cafe Log Inn (a sister restaurant of Trout Beat), and decided to go with the latter. Both the cafes are good to indulge in freshwater fish, Trout. Not a fan of seafood? The cafe also serves other fascinating options, from local, national and international cuisines. However, it's highly recommended to stick to the seafood and other local delights. 

Put a full stop to this meal with a softy from any softy corner. It's a must-have in Kashmir along with Wazwan. Thanks to the perfect weather that demands one. 

TREKKING

We chose a stretch little less known for trekking in Pahalgam. Located right in front of one of the foot over bridges constructed over the Lidder, we started our trek slightly unprepared for what awaited ahead of us. Without the help of a guide, we forayed up the steep hill wearing Converse and Nike casual shoes. In short, ill-equipped. We had the opportunity to witness the diversity of the trail as it crossed through lush meadows, grassy knolls, small streams, and the snow-clad mountains. While it was just a trailer to the main picture, about three hours into the trek, we were face to face with what we considered one of the originating points of Lidder and our summit. The view from there had a calming effect on our eyes that only nature can offer. 

On returning, what was our most beautiful experience of spending two days in Pahalgam became a nightmare. The rain god made sure to get us in more trouble. The result? We lost our way back, and the trail became slippery with each passing minute. At that moment, I couldn't recall dreading anything more than that trek. The hail storm made it tougher for us to reach back to the base camp. But we kept our spirits and feet moving forward till we made it to the base camp safely. We went with our gut and moved our butt.

This tiny village has many such known and unknown gems ready to win you over. The more you delve deep into its beauty, the more you get tempted to experience it from every angle. Are you planning a visit? Don't let go of the thought.